Abnormal Intensification of a Wave near a Vertical Barrier

Pelinovsky E.N., Shurgalina E.G.

One of the possible mechanisms of freak-waves emergence near a vertical barrier, based on the dispersive ‎focusing of unidirectional wave packets is analyzed. This mechanism is associated with the frequency ‎dispersion of water waves and manifested in the interference of many spectral components, moving with ‎different group velocities. Formation of a single freak wave in a random wind wave field is considered in the ‎frame of linear theory. The characteristic lifetime of an abnormal wave in the framework of this mechanism ‎for typical conditions is approximately two minutes, thus such a rapid effect is difficult to predict and prepare ‎for. A rogue wave quickly changes its shape from a high ridge to a deep depression.

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